mangroves in the rain

Area: Close to Tranquilo Bay
Activity: Kayaking & Snorkeling
Weather: Rainy

A great excursion close to Tranquilo Bay is kayaking your way through a series of canals naturally etched in the mangrove forests. When the weather is less than cooperative, this is a nice way to get out and still be within reach of the creature comforts. We paddled a short distance from the dock in an arsenal of sit-on-top kayaks and soaked up a little tropical rain along with the flora and fauna. To me, the rain just enhances the experience and it also reminds you that it is not called the rainforest for nothing. In these enchanted canals you get to see a plethora of wildlife, who don’t take shelter because of the rain but rather go about their daily business. One can see animals such as white faced capuchins, an assortment of birds ranging from Osprey to Kingfishers, upside down jellyfish and of course all types of tropical fish. We donned snorkel and mask and took to the water since we were already wet and swam the edges of the mangrove lagoons. They are rich and diverse, teaming with life and allow for vast amounts of time to be spent searching their marvels. Mangroves in the rain shed a little light on what could be just a rainy day.

all to ourselves

Area: Bocas del Toro Archipelago
Activity: Surfing
Weather: Beautiful sunshine...too much sunshine

Even on small days you can find a nice wave in this part of the Caribbean. I was amazed at what we found today. After feeling a bit disappointed by the surf report, we stumbled onto a gem in the rough. This just instilled in me that even when things look bleak, a little perseverance can have the deepest rewards. This is how the day played out. The surf had gone down considerably from previous days so we shot out to the spots that had a chance of holding up under the current conditions. Repeatedly we found nothing that looked like any fun and then the one spot that was a sure thing had ten guys out in the lineup. On our last shot we found a wave that was uninhabited, pealing and very clean. Just one problem existed, if you did not make the wave you were in about six inches of water on top of the reef. I was a little upset because everyone else in the group was on body boards and I was the lone stand up surfer. After paddling out and realizing there was no way I was going to chance hurting myself or my board I made my way back to the boat, grabbed a sponge (aka body board) and got back in the lineup. We took turns between the three of us at late drops and fast rides for almost five hours with a short break for lunch. The wave was short, committing but a tone of fun and the best part was we never thought it would be there, and of course we had it all to ourselves.

another day in paradise

The swell has dropped around the islands it was decided this day would be about cruising in search of more spots for future surf missions. Equipped with a depth finder, GPS, and charts of the area we fired up the boat and took off. There were squalls on the horizon but the sun was beating down upon us. The winds were howling and the day already had the makings of an epic adventure. First destination, an island named Cayo Agua because of its proximity to open ocean swell and shelter from wind. This island has some wonderful possibility with point and beach breaks. Due to the small swell on this day we only got a taste of what it could be like. However we did witness a few nice sets roll through and peal down the line. This got our bodies quivering with anticipation of what could be when things picked up. Everyone was ready to jump in but the consistency was just not there, another foot quite possibly could have made the difference. Guess we should have been there yesterday. To quell our thirst we shot out to the Zapatilla Cayes in hopes that the outside breaks would be a bit larger and allow us some rides. It was a good decision; we rode a few and went home smiling, another day in paradise.

banana boat

Making our way through the archipelago this morning I pondered the mosaic past of the islands of Bocas del Toro. The boat ride to our destination for the day took us past the many islands and tiny villages that encompass this diverse area. Rich with history and beauty, they have a mystique that hangs over them like the clouds over Volcan Baru. Christopher Columbus sailed through here on his fourth voyage and yet for the next three hundred years the islands did not see much growth. During the late 1800s and early 1900s better known as the colonial era, the area began booming with economic opportunity. Products such as bananas, cocoa, coconut oil, sugar cane and turtle eggs started boosting the local economy. Such growth brought progress to the area, so much so, that the town of Bocas (on Isla Colon) hosted consulates from countries such as Germany, France, England and the United States. As with a lot of Caribbean islands there is an ebb and flow of economic growth and this place has been no different. The islands have laid rather dormant for the last 60 years but lately things have certainly picked up and there is once again a lot happening. One lingering export from the past that can still be seen today is bananas. If you find yourself in the right place, at the right time, you will see one of the gigantic Chiquita banana boats making its way through the channel next to town. It is quite the spectacle - as to the naked eye; one would presume there is not enough water to sustain such a ship.

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in search of a clean wave

Area: Carenero Island
Activities: Surfing
Weather: Beautiful, but windy :)

First thing in the morning, after some coffee of course, we looked at the surf report. A nice swell was pushing, 6 to 8 feet with 10-second intervals. Beautiful, the sun is out with those light, fluffy Caribbean clouds lining the horizon but one thing was amiss, the wind. We set out with high hopes of finding some waves on the front side of Bastimentos Island but as we rounded Old Point we were greeted with a strong west wind that had us guessing about our destination. Pushing on in hopes that the break we were headed to might have just enough cover to hold the waves from being blown out. Upon our arrival it was apparent that the choppy water was just not going to serve for a day of surfing. Bobbing in the water like a coconut headed to some remote outpost, we all sat down to make a decision. It was decided to make a run for Carenero, a nice spot close to Isla Colon that we knew for sure was sheltered from the wind. The ride was worth it, stunning views of the front side of Bastimentos and a clean wave to enjoy the day on.

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storm of color

Area: Zapatilla Cayes, Bocas del Toro, Panama
Activities: Walking, Swimming, Beachcombing, Relaxing
Weather: Gorgeous!

The sky has turned to blue. In this part of the world, rain takes on a different meaning and you begin to become accustomed to it especially as it is the start of the of one of the wetter times of year. Today however the sky has opened and with it my idea of just how picture perfect the view in front of me really is. Blues and greens in every shade known to the human eye, it is a storm of color replacing the thunder and rain of the last few days. After some eggs, toast, jam and strong coffee we were off to soak up the day. A boat, some ocean kayaks and snorkel gear and we were off to explore the turquoise waters of the Zapatilla Cayes that reside in the Bastimentos National Marine Park. After a short walk around the island to survey our surroundings we decided it was time to cool off. So we went for a swim – over and over again. This how the day went and it was hard to imagine ever wanting to leave but as the shadows crept closer and the sun let its grip go we knew it was time, there is always tomorrow.

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education and enlightenment

Area: Bocas del Toro, Panama (Mainland Panama)
Activities: Chocolate Farm Tour & Chance Ocelot Sighting
Weather: Sunny and Windy

After a very filling breakfast of Pixbae Pancakes (made from scratch) it was decided that our morning excursion was going to be a visit to a chocolate farm on the mainland called Green Acres. This beautiful farm is owned by Dave and Linda Cerutti who came to Panama from San Diego almost ten years ago. The boat ride out was breezy and allowed us to shake off some of the heat that persistently resides close to the shores of these lowland Caribbean islands.

After our arrival and introduction we were treated to something special, something that could not be planned. Dave had apparently saved an Ocelot as a cub from a life of imprisonment in a nearby town. He had seen it in a cage and offered to buy the cat so she could be set free. Now she lives in the jungle however, she occasionally comes for a visit to the farm. This relationship you have to see to believe. So, there we were getting ready for our tour, when out of the foliage comes this magnificent animal strolling towards us in a very nonchalant manner. We were all awestruck and frozen because it was not expected nor could one ever be ready for such an approach. I just about passed out when it started rubbing and licking my leg. After an explanation from Dave and Linda we let our guard down and enjoyed the company of this truly wild animal.

ocelot

The next course of events were almost as inspiring, I had no idea the process it takes to get the Cacao bean to the point of consumption that we all know and love, that wonderful thing called chocolate. This was truly a day filled with education and enlightenment, the kind you only get by traveling through this mystic and mysterious part of the world.

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